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This
tastefully restored farm cottage gîte is in a small and
friendly hamlet in the rural area of Saint Ilpize,
in
the heart Auvergne's beautiful Haut-Allier
valley, 90 km. south of Clermont Ferrand. The stone-built
gite
has been carefully and attractively restored. The hillside
behind (starting just behind the house) (map)
is a class 1 nature reserve (ZNIEFF type 1 - French
equivalent of a class 1 SSSI) . The area is a haven for nature lovers,
with its wealth of wildlife - birds, mammals and plants - including
eagles, deer and even small wild prickly-pear cacti. And the valley
still has some of the old terraced vineyards that made it famous in
past centuries. A short walk from the village is a small heritage
vineyard, conserving many old varieties of vine, and just beyond it the
impressive mediaeval castle of St. Ilpize. Chazieux is at the end of the road, and there is hardly any vehicle traffic in the village. The only traffic jams occur when the road is taken up by a flock of sheep. Guests at Lou Coucaye are welcomed with fresh flowers and maybe also fresh vegetables from the garden. Click for panorama of the village (high resolution jpg photo) |
| Ground
floor (photo below):
a spacious living area with dining table for six, and comfortable
chairs, under a beamed ceiling. The two windows look out over the
valley, with views
down to the river and up to the hilltops opposite. There is a
semi-enclosed kitchen area with gas cooker, fridge-freezer, microwave, top-loading
washing machine and cupboards. There is also a toilet with wash-basin, and a cloakroom under the stairs. The front door gives onto a large stone paved terrace, just visible in the top picture, with views over the valley and up the hillside behind. This area tends to become the main living space for visitors during the summer months. Throughout the summer, it offers sunshine and shade. There is adequate shade in the heat of the day, but the full terrace, facing west, catches the early evening sunshine. |
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The
first floor contains the main bedroom (pine
floor with
rugs): one double bed, built in wardrobe; the window looks out over the
valley. The adjoining bathroom has a full-size bath with shower, plus
second toilet and washbasin. The second floor has two bedrooms, one with a double bed, the other, under a sloping wood panelled ceiling, with two single beds. The double-bedded room has windows facing up and down the valley; the single bedded-room, has a secured floor-level window with views down to the river, and a skylight. This room, with its selection of toys and games, is ideal for children, but suitable for adults too. Both second-floor rooms have fitted carpets. All bedrooms have curtains, not shutters. |
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June remains a beautiful "green" month, as the early spring flowers give way to white marguerites, mauve scabius and more. The wild narcissi and other Alpine flowers however, are not far — just a few miles by car or even on foot up to the 1000 metre hilltops opposite, where spring comes just a little more slowly. July
and August
are warm months: as in most of southern France, the hillsides turn a
pale golden colour, offset by the deep green of the beech, oak and pine
forests opposite. These are the months for kayaking down the river,
hiking on the hilltops, picking wild raspberries and bilberries, or
just lazing on the village beach, and swimming in the river. (The
beach, about 300 yards from the village, offers good swimming in an
area some 200 yards long and 30 yards wide, shallow on the near side
but up to 3 metres deep by the diving rock at the far side). There is programme of summer concerts (choral, chamber music, etc) in historic churches and other locations in Saint Ilpize and the Haut Allier valley and nearby. Autumn Breaks September is a mellow month: most of the summer holidaymakers have gone home, leaving the valley deserted except for those who live there all year round. Days can still be warm, even hot, but evenings become much cooler. This is a month for relaxation, a time for hikers and wanderers. By October, depending on how much summer warmth has been soaked in by the thick stone walls, you may need to turn on the radiators; the trees turn bright yellow and brown and the fields revert to green. In the early morning, the hills opposite often rise from a sea of mist in the valley below. In 2006, daytime temperatures were regularly in the twenties right up to the end of October.
Activities
and
visits A
two hour walk (or 20 minute drive) in the other direction
brings the
visitor to the beautiful small town of Lavoute Chilhac,
with its
ornithological centre, its 18th century abbey, its high mediaeval
single-arch
bridge over the river, and its old tall narrow houses, between river
and
hillside. Brioude
is
a very attractive old market
town, with narrow streets,
small shops and a very fine romanesque basilica,
famous for its unique
early mediaeval mosaic floor.. Hiking,
mountain-biking, kayaking Other
attractions: FACILITIES
/ PRESTATIONS: The village has nothing.....
except
its colourful inhabitants; Noël Clevenot, a friendly market
gardener, produces organic vegetables
and delivers them to the doorstep. (You may even prefer to choose them
from the ground!). Robert Servant, the local carpenter, and Daniel
Tivayrat have recently revived a local activity, and produce a very
drinkable dry rosé Gamay,
which is due to receive a "Vin de Pays" label in the near future; their
white
Chardonnay is excellent. Finally, if her hens are laying, octogenarian
Lili Brun may have some very free-range eggs for sale...
Villeneuve d'Allier (3 km) has a bar-restaurant and a post office. A new bakery/general store opened in May 1999 to replace the old bakery and general store which both closed in 1996. Hopefully, the Hotel de la Poste, whose owner sadly died in 2005, will open again soon under new management, and provide a second restaurant within 2 miles of the gite. But there are several other restaurants within a few miles. For shopping, there is Brioude, 15 kms away, with a full range of shops including a small hypermarket and a bustling Saturday market; Lavoûte Chilhac has cafés, restaurants, a baker, a good old-fashioned pizzeria, a butcher and general stores. ACCESS
/ ACCES :
About 8 hours' drive from the Channel ports, via the A71 / A 75 motorways. The gite is about 20 miles from the A 75 motorway exit 20. Brioude has a train station with direct services to Paris and Marseilles. Nearest airports: Clermont Ferrand 1 hr (direct flights from Paris, Brussels, Amsterdam , etc, and maybe London again in 2007.) or Rodez 2h 30 (Ryanair from Stansted)
Part 1. A selection of comments from 2009 "We marvelled at the vallée, the villages and the volcanoes,
did the butterfly walk, saw chateaux, abbayes, puys, églises, and still
found time to play tennis. And above all we met wonderful
people wherever we went, or if we just stayed put. Thanks Andrew &
Ginny for your warm hospitality and advice. Lots to do when we come
back." "Two black kites showed us the way from Saint Ilpize, a
fitting beginning for two weeks full of birds, butterflies, plants, and
above all sunshine. We all love it very much here. Chazieux is an ideal
place if you want to spend some time in a quiet place with incredible
wildlife" "Pour la troisième année consecutive, nous voici en vacances à
Chazieux. C'est avec un très grand plaisir que nous avons retrouvé le
gîte, sa terrasse, et son paysage splendide, la baignade et la pêche
dans l'Allier. Nous reviendrons ...." "Wonderful week at Lou Coucaye – think we only scratched the
surface of things to see and do, but we did manage Puy Mary as well as
the train trip down the Allier gorge, well worth it! Going
back very relaxed ! "What luck for us to discover this unspoilt corner of France.
Coming in Spring, we must have witnessed one of the most beautiful
times in the valley; magical greens of the beeches and birches on the
hillsides, the wonderful meadows of grasses, cowslips, orchids, even
narcissi, flowers of the wayside, broom in bloom, and the sound of
birdsong... We heard hoopoes, nightingales, bonelli's warbler, and saw
kites, short-toed eagle, harriers and honey-buzzard. The gîte has
been a delight, and the weather always dry...."
"We have
seen enough and enjoyed
the special beauty of this part of France to know that we want to come
back; and we have appreciatd the warm hospitality, the cosy comfort and
so many other aspects of this gite and hamlet." "May 2006 -
"Had
a wonderful relaxing
two weeks. Everything we needed was here, and the location is
fantastic. One of our best holidays....... We will definitely be back". "Spent a very
pleasant relaxing week
enjoying
the views and the surrounding area. The gite was comfortable and well
equipped, with a spectacular view. Thankyou very much" "Lovely
relaxing week; we especially enjoyed walks around the gite, down by the
river and around the hills. the gite was very comfortable and ha
everything we neded; the barbeque was well used." "We've had a lovely
stay in
Chazieux. What a beautiful part of the world this is! We've seen
beautiful sights, and
we feel rested! We walked to St. Ilpize every day, and we loved the
river route back. Thanks so much for your generous hospitality and your
wonerful gite." "We
really had a lovely time at Lou Coucaye. It was a
really regenerative holiday. We
also much appreciated the fact that the house was so clean and also
well
equipped. We have stayed at many cottages both in France and England
and
some have been neither clean nor well equipped! It was a
delight!" " Just
to say how much we enjoyed
our week in your gite from
13 to 20 September. We were lucky because the weather was perfect with
hardly
a cloud in the sky all day every day, and starlit nights. Apart from a
day
visit to Puy Dome, and necessary shopping, we hardly used the car at
all
enjoying the peaceful and beauutiful surroundings." "We
are now back in Sweden, after a very good
time in your Gite. We felt very well, all the time. Oh yes, at day
after
arrival, the skies opened and we got some centimeter of rain,
but
only that day, the rest was very fine. We saw Le Puy, Thiers, Clermont
Ferrand,
Cantal and of course the nearest surroundings. Thank you very much for
a nice time." |
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